| The warm tropical waters and perfectly breaking | | | | order and societal classes. Surfboards were |
| waves found in Hawaii truly are a Hawaiian | | | | divided into classes according to the type of |
| surfer's paradise. The history of surfing in Hawaii is | | | | wood used and the length of the boards. The |
| a large part of the island's culture. The ancient | | | | largest and heaviest of surfboards were reserved |
| sport holds great meaning for Hawaiians and is | | | | strictly for Hawaiian royalty. |
| deeply rooted in traditional Hawaiian culture. | | | | Surfing was used as a means to settle disputes |
| The First Hawaiian Surfers | | | | among the people. Wealth, social standing, land |
| While no one knows exactly when and where | | | | holdings and even matters of the heart were all |
| surfing first originated, the popularity of modern | | | | settled with a surfing contest. The chief of the |
| surfing traces a direct route back to Hawaii. | | | | island was by far the best surfer and he surfed |
| Captain Cook, who landed on the island of Hawaii | | | | regularly to maintain his standing in the community |
| in 1778 during an exploration expedition, penned | | | | and keep up his strength and skill in the water. |
| the earliest written records describing the act of | | | | History of Surfing in Hawaii |
| surfing. However, the ancient Polynesians had | | | | Around 1820, missionaries and settlers from |
| been surfing for centuries before Captain Cook's | | | | England arrived on the Hawaiian Islands and |
| observance of the now popular water sport. | | | | attempted to take control of the Hawaiian people. |
| Hawaiian hieroglyphics depicting men on surfboards | | | | Traditional Hawaiian culture and practices were |
| date back to as early as 1500 AD. The Hawaiians | | | | prohibited or strongly discouraged during this time, |
| call surfing he'e nalu, which when translated means | | | | and surfing nearly became extinct on the islands. |
| 'wave sliding'. | | | | After years of oppression, a period of social |
| While most modern-day surfers consider surfing a | | | | reform began around 1905. A group of native |
| sport, ancient Hawaiian surfing was part religion, | | | | Hawaiians lead by Duke Kahanamoku revived |
| part sport, and a large part of the Hawaiian social | | | | surfing on the islands. The resurgence of surfing |
| culture. | | | | continued, and visitors to the islands enjoyed |
| The Religious Aspects of Hawaiian Surfing | | | | watching this unique Hawaiian pastime. The sport |
| Traditional Hawaiians believe that the sea has | | | | eventually found its way back to the mainland and |
| distinct moods and actions. Special priests, called | | | | a small gathering of loyal surfers formed in |
| Kahunas, would pray to the sea for the surfers. | | | | California, where it eventually grew into the |
| They also performed special dances and rituals | | | | popular sport we know today. |
| intended to please the sea so she would reward | | | | Hawaiian Surfer's Paradise |
| the surfers with perfect waves. If surfers had | | | | Hawaii is renowned for being a surfer's paradise. |
| good waves that day, the people gave the credit | | | | The mild weather and nearby coral reefs provide |
| to the priests who successfully pleased the sea | | | | perfect waves and a multitude of desirable surfing |
| and were rewarded with powerful, perfect | | | | locations on each of the Hawaiian Islands. The |
| waves. | | | | continually changing outlay of the islands due to |
| Creating surfboards is also a religious ceremony in | | | | incessant volcanic activity ensures that local |
| Hawaiian culture. Only three types of wood were | | | | surfers remain challenged. One of the most |
| suitable for crafting traditional surf boards. Surfers | | | | popular surfing points in Hawaii, known as the |
| took special care in selecting a tree for use as a | | | | Drain Pipes, has been completely overtaken by |
| surfboard. Once a surfer selected the right tree, | | | | lava. |
| he recited special prayers and placed fish in a hole | | | | This same volcanic activity also produces |
| at the base of the tree. Only once these rituals | | | | spectacular surfing beaches with white, golden, |
| were completed could the tree be cut down for | | | | green and black sand. For this reason, the |
| use as a surfboard. | | | | wonders of the Hawaiian surfer's paradise has |
| Surfing in the Hawaiian Culture | | | | spread well beyond the tropical paradise as |
| Surfing was not only a sport for Hawaiians, but it | | | | visitors and surfing enthusiasts from all over the |
| was also an integral part of their society. Surfing | | | | world travel to Hawaii to enjoy some of the best |
| was part of the Kapu system of government on | | | | surfing the sea has to offer. |
| the islands. This system maintained a sense of | | | | |