| Oahu with its huge sea waves has long been | | | | The Resurrection of Surfing |
| acknowledged as the birth place of surfing. He'e | | | | Three non-Hawaiian men were responsible for the |
| nalu as surfing is known in the Hawaiian language | | | | resurrection of surfing in the 1900's. Visitors to |
| has been around for ages. The earliest reference | | | | the Waikiki beach were amazed by the surfing |
| to it is found as petroglyphs on lava rocks. There | | | | stunts performed by George Freeth on the great |
| are many chants dating back to 1500s about | | | | waves of Oahu. At the same time international |
| surfing. These chants narrate stories of great | | | | audiences wee introduced to this adventure sport |
| feats that the surfers had. References have also | | | | through the writings of Jack London. At around |
| been found in the journals written by Captain | | | | the same time Alexander Hume Ford found the |
| James King, 1779. Surfing as we know has been | | | | Outrigger Canoe Club on the beaches of Waikiki. |
| around for quite some time. Here is a little | | | | Freeth was responsible for bringing surfing to |
| background on surfing history. | | | | California. Surfing was taken to Australia by Duke |
| The Hawaiian Tradition of Surfing | | | | Paoa Kahanamoku, native Hawaiian, who was an |
| In ancient Hawaiian society, surfing pervaded | | | | Olympic swimming champion. |
| every aspect. It touched the social structure, | | | | By the 1960's the ancient sport of Hawaii became |
| religion and even myths. Surfing was done on long | | | | a cult in itself a huge industry was built around it |
| narrow hardwood boards. | | | | which included equipment, surf wear, accessories, |
| Surfing was such a major part of the ancient | | | | books and magazines, adventure vacations, music |
| Hawaiian society that it even finds mention in the | | | | and films. |
| code of taboos, kapu. The Kapu defined the social | | | | Big Wave Competition |
| strata, the royals and the commoners. The surf | | | | The quicksilver, Big Wave Invitational In Memory |
| zones were not untouched from these taboos. | | | | of Eddie Aikau is held every year in the winters. It |
| Specific beaches were allotted to the chiefs, ali'I | | | | is held at Waimea Bay. It has been a tradition |
| and the commoners, maka ai nana, could use | | | | since 1985. it is in memory of Eddie aikau who |
| beaches specified for them only. | | | | gave his life to save the lives of fellowmen. |
| The Demise of Surfing | | | | Oahu-the king of surfing. |
| The play activities of Hawaii, surfing, hula and | | | | Oahu is undoubtedly the best place in the whole |
| others saw a decline during the 1820s with the | | | | world to surf. The waters maintain ideal |
| advent of Christian missionaries. They imposed a | | | | temperature throughout the year and there are |
| puritanical code and work ethics. The Kapu | | | | at least, if not more 1700 mapped sites for |
| system was overthrown by the favorite queen | | | | surfing. The best waves in Oahu range from |
| of Kamehameha, Ka'ahumanu and the beaches | | | | gentle rollers of Waikiki to massive body crushers |
| were freed for everyone, but for more than 150 | | | | on the north shore. |
| years no one enjoyed them. | | | | |