| Although surfing is Hawaii's most popular sport, its | | | | surfing began to spread to North America and to |
| earliest origins are unknown. Surfing, known to | | | | Australia. In 1908, Hawaiian surfer George Freeth |
| native Hawaiians as he'enalu, was first observed | | | | officially began the California surfing culture, being |
| by Europeans in 1767 in Tahiti. It is known that | | | | recognized as the first man to surf in California. In |
| surfing played a central role in ancient Polynesian | | | | 1912, surfing was introduced to Virginia Beach, |
| customs, and certainly existed for many years | | | | Virginia by Waikiki native Duke Kahanamoku, and |
| prior to European contact, as shown in numerous | | | | in 1915, to Australia. These early surfing pioneers |
| cave drawings and other evidence dating back at | | | | were responsible for bringing the sport to |
| least 3,000 years. During this time, it is known | | | | worldwide attention, constantly pushing the |
| that surfing was practiced in Samoa, Tahiti, and | | | | development of surfboards and the range of |
| Tonga, and it is likely that residents of many | | | | surfing possibilities. |
| other islands in the South Pacific also surfed. | | | | Modern surfing culture really took off in the 1950s |
| In ancient Hawaii, surfing was not just a leisure | | | | and 1960s, along with the rise of tiki culture as |
| activity, but a well-respected art form. Before | | | | well as surf music popularized by the Beach Boys. |
| hitting the waves, the Hawaiians prayed to the | | | | Numerous professional competitions got their |
| gods for strength and protection against the | | | | start during this era, starting a trend that has |
| powerful and mysterious ocean. In ancient times, | | | | continued to the present day. Today, an entire |
| the chief and ruling class were entitled to the best | | | | subculture revolves around surfing, along with the |
| boards made from the best trees. Commoners | | | | surf shops and events to go with it. |
| were not allowed to ride on the same beaches, | | | | Today's surfboards look almost nothing like their |
| but could gain prestige by becoming known for | | | | ancient Hawaiian counterparts. Originally, |
| their surfing skill. The first surfboards were made | | | | surfboards were carved from a solid plank of |
| of three types of trees: koa, 'ulu, and wikiwili. | | | | wood. In 1930, the hollow board, supported by |
| Skilled craftsmen shaped and prepared the board. | | | | interior ribs, was developed. This lighter and more |
| Surfboards of this era had no fins, and required | | | | buoyant board was easier to ride, but still difficult |
| great skill to maneuver. | | | | to control. In the 1930s and 1940s, numerous |
| In the 1820s, missionaries outlawed many ancient | | | | design changes added fins and other details, |
| Polynesian practices, including surfing. By the | | | | greatly increasing a rider's control over the board's |
| twentieth century, only a small number of | | | | movement. |
| Hawaiians continued to surf and to build | | | | Today, Hawaii is world-renowned as a surfer's |
| surfboards. Still, Hawaiians began to revive the | | | | paradise. The same volcanic activity that |
| tradition, soon re-establishing this sport in Waikiki. | | | | produced the island resulted in spectacular |
| These surfers were seen by noted author Jack | | | | beaches with beautiful white sands and a |
| London, who was so impressed that he wrote | | | | multitude of great surfing locations. Many of the |
| the book "A Royal Sport: Sufing in Waikiki," one of | | | | best surfers in the world travel to Hawaii to |
| the first modern mentions of surfing culture. | | | | enjoy some of the best waves the sea has to |
| In the earliest decades of the twentieth century, | | | | offer. |